Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
